On Feeling Safe in Israel

Emily Bernstein
December 22, 2018

When I got back from Birthright in June 2015, I couldn’t wait to talk about the experience with my family and friends. The problem was, when I told some of my friends I had just gotten back from Israel, they didn’t ask did you have fun? They didn’t ask how was it? They didn’t even really want to hear anything I had to say until they could ask:

But… Did you feel safe? 

I struggled – and still struggle – to answer that question because I have a gut, instinctive reaction to scoff, but I also completely appreciate the question and understand where it’s coming from. 

Due to the media, bias, and just what we hear about the region, people – and no, not everyone, but many – tend to assume the streets of Israel (Jerusalem especially) are filled with violence, soldiers walking around with fully loaded guns, sadness, displacement, and lots and lots of sand. Some of those observations aren’t entirely wrong, but still. 

Here’s the thing: Jerusalem is a vibrant city. There’s traffic, concrete everywhere, and people are always in a hurry. At 8:30-9 am, people are rushing to school and to work. There are coffee shops, and shawarma restaurants, on every corner. At night, people go to dinner, drink at bars, go to movies, go to bed. Sound familiar? It should, because I just described every city ever. 

Is there more tension here based on a more than 70 year old conflict? Yes. Is the media always 100% wrong when reporting on what’s happening in Israel? No. Is there constant violence and are there attacks going on all the time in Jerusalem or Israel as a whole? Not necessarily (but we’ll get back to that). 

Is it safe? I’d say yes. 

I was raised to not walk places alone at night, not go to places that felt not right, and just generally look out for things that seem fishy.

And I went to university in a relatively large city. I rarely walked anywhere alone at night. I avoided certain parts of the city. I would turn my music down when walking alone – even during the day – to be sure I could hear my surroundings. I locked my car doors obsessively. 

Am I any less aware here than I was at home? Absolutely not. Do I feel less safe here than I did at home? Not at all.

When I walk to work, weekly seminars, shul on Fridays, dinner with friends, the bar that plays American football games on Sundays, I don’t look behind my shoulder at every footstep passing. I smile at people who pass me. I’m honestly more comfortable walking places than getting in a taxi (which might have way more to do with the crippling anxiety I have getting into a car with any stranger where they could turn into an alley or empty parking lot at any point and murder me violently which is an anxiety I have in the States, and everywhere, in Ubers and Lyfts too, but I digress). 

It’d be naive to say that I feel completely safe and secure here. Just these past two weeks, Masa restricted travel for Masa participants for safety concerns. This was due to a wave of – and I really hesitate to use this phrase here due to its violent and exceedingly negative connotations – terrorist attacks that were coming out of specific parts of Israel. 

Masa has since reversed the restrictions. The restrictions were in place solely for the safety and security of people like me – on a Masa program – because, while we’re here, they’re responsible for us. It’s a little bit like your parents telling you not to cross the street without an adult when you’re a little kid. 

And, since I’ve been here, there have been a number of rocket attacks from Gaza in the south. Living in Jerusalem gives me the advantage of feeling pretty okay when that happens since people would be pretty stupid to set fire to Jerusalem – a city coveted by all involved parties. But living in Jerusalem doesn’t alleviate any of the tension that permeates the air when rockets are falling just three hours south of here and a pregnant mother is shot in a drive-by shooting. 

I’m not saying this is okay. The Arab/Israeli conflict is complicated and longstanding, and definitely needs a solution so that Israelis and Palestinians don’t have to go through another 70+ years of this.*

I’m just trying to explain – as an American temporarily living in Israel – the situation from my point of view. (And if you don’t want my point of view, you’ve come to the wrong blog.)

What upsets me more than anything – more than if I feel safe, if I’m worried about something happening to me or my friends, if it’s worth it to have this incredible experience – is that Israelis – most of whom were simply born into this circumstance and now have to live in fear for those family members and friends in the army – live this for their whole lives

I’ll say it again: it’s not okay. But just because there is violence in Israel doesn’t mean I feel unsafe. 

I mean, look at the US where people are facing awful, marginalizing, violent situations which I will not get into in this blog post because that’s a whole other story. 

Look, Israel and Palestine are at war. And war means violence. War means people are going to get hurt. War is painful, it is gruesome, and it is heartbreaking. But war doesn’t mean living in fear. It doesn’t mean people are living their lives any differently than people are in the states. Like I said, they go to work, they eat, they hang out with friends, they go to bed. Life in Israel is not a constant wait for something to happen, for something to go wrong. 

So yes, I feel safe here. And thank you, truly, for asking. 

*This blog post was entirely in response to the subject of feeling safe here in Israel. In no way was this a post that intended to address the Arab/Israeli conflict. Perhaps I will write a blog about that one day, perhaps not. Should you wish to ask me about my opinions regarding safety or the conflict, feel free to contact me. 

שׁלום

Donkeys, Horses, Camels…Oh My!

Emily Bernstein
October 2, 2018

Well, after another holiday (a whole week this time! Thanks, Sukkot!), some of the fellows and I decided we would go to Jordan for a few days to see Petra and Wadi Rum.

So Jenna, Ines, Will, Jake, and I packed up and shipped off to Jordan.

We started off in Jerash, a city known for its beautifully maintained Roman ruins. Our guide, Mahdi, says that they are the best maintained ruins in the Middle East, “and maybe even the world!” (I’m not so sure I side with Mahdi on that one, but the hyperbole worked in the moment. These ruins are so well-maintained because of an earthquake from a long long time ago that buried them in sand. They were only rediscovered in 1806, and have been carefully rebuilt and restored over the past 200 years (see photos below for highlights from Jerash).

After that, we toured around Amman – the capital of Jordan – on the bus. I would say it’s a cool city, but I didn’t see much of it due to my very uncomfortable bus nap, but the crew told me I didn’t miss much. What I did see reminded me of what Jerusalem might have looked at 30 years ago.

We headed from Amman straight to our Bedouin “camp.” I put “camp” in quotes because it was not a camp. It was a glampground. There were insulated tents, with actual beds, a huge firepit where they walked around serving us the sweetest tea I’ve ever tasted, hot meals, running water… You get the picture. It was nice

The next morning, we headed to Petra. All I have to say about Petra is:

WOW.

Petra is one of the seven wonders of the world. And now that I’ve been there, I totally see why. We had just over 8 hours there, and I still feel like I didn’t have enough time to see everything I could have (again, photos below).

Details to note about Petra:
• People were actually living there until the 1980s when the Jordanian government asked them to move so that they could declare it as a UNESCO Heritage Site.
• It’s probably been inhabited since 9,000 BC.
• After it was abandoned by people in the early Byzantine Era, it remained unlived in until it was rediscovered in 1812.
• Probably the most famous line every written about it is: “A rose-red city half as old as time” (John William Burgon).

Also: it’s really freaking cool.

You start with a walk through the canyon, with enough ruins and wall carvings to show you a lot about the Nabateans, who inhabited Petra (many eons ago). Then, you emerge on, possibly the most famous ruin in Petra, the Treasury. Although you cannot go in, the outside is majestic enough. Although it’s called a treasury, historians and archeologists have actually discovered that it’s a burial ground, and you can actually see the tombs below the building. It’s all very historical, which might, at face value, sound boring. I assure you, it’s not.

You continue walking and you see the Royal Tombs, the theatre, the old temple… It’s all so incredible, and much of it is not pictured below only because I felt my photos to be inadequate to just how cool Petra was.

Now, you may be thinking: Emily, calm down with the praise of Petra. You might be overdoing it. And if you are thinking that, you probably haven’t been to Petra.

Anyway, after lunch, we climbed to the top of Petra – up 800 steps (in about 39 degree celsius weather) – to the Monastery. And just… wow. The fact that people were living in Petra up until the 1980s is pretty incredible just due to the fact that, while at the Monastery, I was looking around thinking, imagine if this was your morning coffee view. 

After Petra, we spent a little bit of the next day in Wadi Rum on a jeep tour. You might recognize Wadi Rum from movies like “The Martian,” or “Lawrence of Arabia,” or “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusader,” or even “Rogue One: A Star Wars Story.” So yeah, it’s picturesque.

The sand is endless in Wadi Rum. (But Emily, of course the sand is endless. It’s a desert!) I don’t mean that I wasn’t expecting to be surrounded by sand in the desert because, hello, that seems obvious. I just mean that, at one point, standing atop a sand dune, the sand around us literally looked like it went on forever. It’s actually both breathtakingly beautiful and also slightly ominous at the same time.

All in all, the trip was great (or couldn’t you tell?), and I’m so grateful and glad that I got the privilege to go.

(If you would like any full size photos of the ones you see above, please let me know, and I will email them to you.)

Until next time!

שָׁלוֹם